Can I Clean Sks Bore From Muzzle End

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1. Hey guys, Im lamentable if this is the wrong forum, simply it seems every bit good a place as whatever. So I went to the range today with my new yugo sks. To go along it cheap I only bought 40 rounds. I shot them off without a hitch, wiped any oil that came out of my gun from the previous cleaning, and wiped whatsoever cosmo that still leaked from the stock. Subsequently that I went home, sprayed a boresnake with hoppes bore cleaner and ran it through my barrel twice (once wet, one time dry out). I didnt oil, or clean any of the other parts on the gun. Should I have? I only shot xl rounds, so I figured it can wait until my next shoot. I shot brand new winchester 7.62x39 so they werent corrosive. Is there annihilation Im missing? Anything I didnt practice? I know my sks is a simple, cheap rifle, just I similar to take care of information technology. If theres anything I missed, or If Im in the wrong forum, delight allow me know. Thanks for the help in advance.

2. That's non-corrosive ammo, then you should be ok. Still, if you might all the same have any cosmo inside...get it out.

3. At that place'southward one potentially dangerous affair that you lot should bank check on. SKS rifles have firing pins that must be able to move freely within the commodities. That means when you lot shake the commodities, the firing pin should rattle back and forth. If it's stuck in place because of crud/cosmolene, the rifle can slam fire, meaning the gooed in place firing pivot can fire the cartridge before the bolt is fully closed and locked. Can be unhealthy for the burglarize and operator. Practice a search on this forum for cleaning tips. Letting the bolt assembly soak overnight in a solvent (paint thinner, etc) or spraying with liberal amounts of restriction cleaner are two means to clean the cosmolene out of the bolt. I soaked mine in gasoline for ten minutes in a plastic tub in my back g merely that'due south a proficient way to take hold of fire or explode so I never recommend it. I'yard a gun cleaning nut who can't let a fired gun remain uncleaned, but that's merely me. Sounds like your rifle will be fine. (And if yous were already aware of the firing pin info, disregard. Just want everyone here to be safe.)

   At that place'southward a downloadable manual here:

   http://www.interordnance.com/library/

   Here's some other good source of data:

   http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/index.asp

4. In that location is a prepare for the slamfire problem here: http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm

   I put ane on my Yugo SKS. Highly recommended

   ZM

5. What Murphster said is EXACTLY what happened to me a couple of months ago, and it ain't funny. My Chinese SKS went full-car on me for three rounds final fall. Then before this jump it started going off equally shortly as the bolt slammed shut, fifty-fifty with the safety on. When I stripped information technology down and pulled the firing pin out, I could run into that it was caked with cosmo and other crud. I cleaned that out real well and took information technology dorsum to the range the next day. At present information technology shoots great, and safely. I HIGHLY recommend that you clean yours out correct away likewise, before yous become the symptoms.

   Take care.

6. guys, thats one of the first things i checked for when i first cleaned information technology. I made sure that whatever mode i tilt my rifle, that the firing pin falls in that direction. information technology takes the slightest amount of pressure to move it. I fabricated sure that there is no cosmo there. I used gun scrubber on it and the gunsmith dropped information technology in his cleaner too. The simply cosmo left in the gun is small amounts that have seeped into the stock. At that place is none left on any metallic parts of the gun. Thanks for the help guys.

7. I've found that good ole charcoal liter fluid works great also. Dosen't have a bad odour and is easy to detect.
   good shootin
   kid

8. The other thing is to make sure the cosmo is out of the gas system...

   Mine was SOLID full of cosmo and I'g certain information technology wouldn't take cycled if I hadn't cleaned it...

9. You cleaned information technology enough for 40 rounds. You tin run them all twenty-four hours without a good cleaning. Endeavor some Wolf ammo every bit that Winchester stuff is pretty expensive. Information technology'south non-corrosive and works well in any SKS.

   Where do you shoot at?

10. i shoot at hagues indoor range in west deptford. the fartherst altitude is 25 yards there. So im looking for an outdoor range. Whatever suggestions?

12. While you lot tin can go abroad with the sort of cursory cleaning of the bore that you describe for a goodly while with an SKS, doing so habitually volition make the eventual thorough cleaning of the gas organisation, bolt/carrier, and trigger mechanism messy and time-consuming.

    Since field stripping an SKS is a simple, straight-forward proceedure and needs just a cartridge or like pointed object to event, information technology'll salvage you fourth dimension and grief in the long run to requite the gas piston(s) and tube and the bolt/carrier at least a wipe-downwards and inspection after every session.

    That'll keep the crud from building upward in the gas port, on the piston and in the tube, preclude corrosion from getting a foothold, and spot most impending issues earlier they get serious.

    Not having the bedroom and bore chrome plated does brand your Yugo more susceptible to wear and damage from corrosive ammo and rust, but at that place really isn't much ammo with corrosive priming in seven.62x39 around anymore. Simply all ammo deposits carbon and metal fouling in the gas system, and so that's your biggest potential trouble spot if it's left uncleaned for long periods. Carbon (soot) is hygroscopic (draws in moisture from the air) and the high-temperature gases which cycle things will make sure that whatsoever protectant flick on the parts exposed to them is burned off in short order. Leave that soot on things while there's even a normal humidity level for very long, and you will run across rust sooner than you'd remember.

    IIWY, I'd take the little bit of extra fourth dimension and effort to field strip your SKS and give all of the vital areas at least "a lick and a promise" afterward very range session. Information technology volition get a long way to extend the life of your carbine and keep it in first-form shape.

    BTW, using Wolf or the other E. European mil-spec generic ammo with mild steel cases and "hard" military primers will save you a lot of money compared to Winchester or the other domestically-fabricated generics, peculiarly if you buy it in some quantity. You won't be giving up much, if anything, in the fashion of accuracy and yous'll exist able to practice more often, too.

13. i but followed my russian army transmission translated into english. I field stripped it, cleaned the bore with patches and a copper brush. I used gun scrubber and RBC on the slide so lightly oiled them. The only problem was the gas tube and piston. They seemed to be sticking at the stop the piston comes out of. However, it says to keep them dry, so I didnt oil them. Likewise, there was carbon on the part where the gas tube attaches to the front end sight, and I didnt know what to practise with that. ITs taking some getting used to, merely I think cleaning this will get easier and easier.

14. The main gas piston should be a rather snug fit at the port end of the tube. As long as at that place's non a great bargain of resistance, don't worry about it. If the resistance to movement isn't fairly consistent through the length of travel, you might want to take some solvent and a nylon or bronze bore castor of the correct diameter for the tube and give information technology a few licks. Any baked-on carbon or gilding metal tin be removed and should slick-up the travel for you lot.

    Getting the deposits off the piston'south head will help, too. Pay extra attention to the grooves and the face up. The "cup" in the face can collect a good deal of metal fouling too as but carbon, and it tin can be a real PITA to become it off if you allow it go too long, especially if the head isn't wink-chromed. Whatever y'all do, DON'T utilize anything abrasive on it!! A bronze brush or a bit of Scotch Brite pad if you lot must, merely no steel wool or polishing compounds.

    A few q-tips and a worn bronze brush used with bore cleaning solvent will get most all of the crud out of the gas port block. In farthermost cases, you might need that picayune scraping tool establish in some outcome cleaning kits to articulate the port orifice itself. The solvent and swabs routine will mostly be enough to continue the port from getting clogged unless you run several hundred rounds through it between cleanings.

    FWIW, I like to use a little GI rifle grease (normally plant in those picayune plastic pots with the yellowish pinnacle at shows, etc.) on the bolt'due south camming surfaces and in the grooves in the carrier where information technology rides on the receiver. Just a light coat applied with a q-tip seems agree up longer under extended firing than just oil while as well keeping noticable signs of wear to the surfaces down to a minimum.

    Don't neglect the secondary piston (in the tunnel in the rear sight housing) and its spring. Non necessarily an "every time" matter, only check it out regularly. You can just wipe the piston, spring, and their "tunnel" off with some solvent and reoil them. You'll be surprised at how much accident-past tin notice its way into there over time.

    I know information technology sounds like a lot more work, merely information technology really isn't. If you've already field stripped information technology everything that can need attention is right out in that location anyway. IMO, making good maintenance a routine will exercise more than to stave-off problems and keep your carbine working, shooting and looking meliorate longer than anything else you can practice.

15. thanks alot. there was someone who told me not to use a copper (statuary?) brush in the gas tube. I did utilise it nonetheless, and my gunsmith said the same affair. I cleaned ALOT of carbon off of information technology with gun scrubber and a castor. it slides dainty and easy now with a tiny bit of resistance at the top. and if i tilt it upside down, the tube falls correct out easily. Im all the same not certain if I should take used a copper (bronze?) castor or not? They said non to scratch the inside, but information technology doesnt announced scratched to me. hmm

    Im actually new to this whole gun cleaning thing. Im glad I take an SKS to experiment on. At present when information technology comes to doing it right, im really trying to get it down pat. And so sad for beating a dead horse, simply heres what i practise.

    1. clean the action parts, bolt, reciever, carrier, trigger group with gun scrubber allow them dry and slightly oil.

    2. i clean the barrel with hoppes ix solvent spray, a castor, patches, and and then dry out patches.

    3. I cleaned the gas tube with a bore brush (bronze or copper, im not sure), i so shoot it make clean with gun scubber, dry it out, and exercise the aforementioned with the piston. I get out them dry and dont oil them. Thats what one of the manuals told me. Is this all right?

    I really promise Im getting this down and didnt impairment my gun in anyway.

16. once again with me flogging the deceased equine. Do i have to clean the gas port alot? The office which the tube slides into, below the front sight. Information technology build upward carbon, but do I accept to clean it as much equally everything else? Thank you over again guys.

17. You should clean it from time to time if but to ensure against stoppage or scoring.

    The SKS's are known for going blindside no thing what, merely there is no reason to tempt fate.

18. Just remember that Hoppes nine is not a copper remover, yous'll need to use a copper remover from fourth dimension to fourth dimension to get rid of the copper deposits from the jackets.

    Endeavor Boretech's Eliminator, I use it on my .fifty. Information technology doesn't contain any ammonia then there'due south no harsh oder. It cleans copper like mad, if you employ a copper brush you'll accept to ditch information technology after a couple uses as it will eat information technology as well.

19. IF you have whatsoever misgivings about using a bronze (most brands are; tougher and more resistant to solvents than other alloys with copper) castor in your gas tube, buy one with nylon bristles and use it. Almost all of the major suppliers make them. FWIW, bronze is much 'softer' than the mildest steel, and then scratching the surfaces in your tube with i would be difficult, to say the to the lowest degree. Whatsoever solvent designed to set on the gilding metal (a copper alloy) fouling will affect bronze to some degree. The more than "ambitious" the formula, the faster the brush will deteriorate. That'due south why the makers of well-nigh pop "super solvents" for copper fouling specify or recommend using a stiff-bristled nylon diameter brush with their products. They'll piece of work just as nicely in your gas tube as they do in the bore.

    On the walls of your gas tube, the firing residue is primarily carbon. Whatsoever "nitro" solvent volition accept care of that quite well. Proficient ol' Hoppe'southward #9 will do just every bit skillful a job on it as the much more expensive "wonder cleaners". Hoppe's will remove routine copper fouling as well; it just accept more time.

    Since your Yugo's diameter and sleeping accommodation aren't plated, I'd run a patch wetted with preservative oil or WD-forty through them afterward cleaning. Cheap insurance, peculiarly if information technology's likely to sit for a while betwixt range sessions. I'd rather accept to remember to run a couple of dry ones through earlier loading at the next outing than find rust in my diameter.

    I swab out the gas block every time I practise routine cleaning. The tube'south off anyway, and it'll simply take a infinitesimal. At the very to the lowest degree information technology'll clinch that the new crud is removed long earlier information technology can layer-up to the point where operation might be impaired. Information technology can't hurt anything, and information technology might assistance you spot an impending visit from Mr. Murphey before he gets to the door.

20. wow guys. thanks alot for all that info. its a few things to go. but id be taking alot better care of my rifle than people did in combat, and hell, it lasted and then too. Also, the gas port leakage that some people have occur, what are my chances of having that happen? Should I use HB weld, wire, an O-ring, or something else to keep that from happening? Or are my chances pretty low since I dont fire grenades off of it, i hardly mess with that area, and i use non-corrosive ammo? Thanks again, you guys are great.

21. Even on the nigh pristine SKS, some gas is going to escape from at least a couple of points. Product tolerances are generous, in the interests of efficient product by relatively unsophisticated tooling and labor, too as continued reliability under field weather condition. The system was never designed to be more than nominally "gas tight", as past design it gets much-more than-than-plenty volume and pressure level to exercise its job, even after considerable vesture.

    Mutual areas where small amounts of gas escapes are at the gas block/barrel juncture, and the tube/block interface. The bulk of the gas is vented by the two ports in the tube when the piston completes its stroke. It is absolutely normal to see some show of gas "leakage" around these points.

    I wouldn't worry about it. As long equally you go on upwards the routine maintenance, yous're very unlikely to be able to shoot it plenty to wear it out, and be able to spot virtually any impending trouble long before it gets to the point of role failure.

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